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Unread 2011-10-09, 16:15   #1
AsMuch's Avatar
AsMuch
Member

Dec 2 2005
6,089 posts
Age 39
Male
Massachusetts
 



I have a question about my awesome Civic. Last week the front brakes went from fine to grinding. I decided to replace the pads and rotors (rotors showed significant corrosion - stupid Maryland roads).

When I replaced the driver's side pads, the outer one had 0% left (likely the cause of grinding) while the inner one had 60-70% left (not enough to engage the wear indicator).

The passenger's side has even wear on the inside and outside with maybe 70% left.

Do I need to replace/repair the caliper on the driver's side, or just grease up the pins extra good?

This will be extra useful because next week, I will be racing against a V. Diesel in the America Drift Underground Racing Circuit.
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Unread 2011-10-09, 16:40   #2
Chuck's Avatar
Chuck
Member

May 6 2003
15,810 posts
Age 62
Male
The real America not that part where you live.
 



I would think greasing the pins would be enough, doesn't sound like s stuck caliper piston. Maybe you better wait for Dinah to weigh in though.
Also, kick Vin's ass in the race man.
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Unread 2011-10-09, 17:00   #3
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b0rg9
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Jan 6 2004
9,325 posts
Age 53
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clearwater, FL
 



Click the image to open in full size.
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Unread 2011-10-09, 18:36   #4
NocturnalGuy's Avatar
NocturnalGuy
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Oct 22 2003
4,930 posts
Age 46
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T.O.
 



Ass-car. That's the first thing I thought of as well. Nothing useful to add.
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Unread 2011-10-10, 13:32   #5
RepoMan's Avatar
RepoMan
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Jun 24 2003
30,925 posts
Age 48
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On the trails
 



Seconded.
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Unread 2011-10-10, 15:21   #6
Dinahmoehum's Avatar
Dinahmoehum
Member

Nov 1 2004
6,068 posts
Age 60
I'm Oprah Rich!
 



Couple things, first there should be no corrosion on the rotors, edges or hub maybe but the surface should be pristine! As for the surface, if there was grinding, it may be time to just replace them. I don't do this, I let my brakes be shit till the pads wear in. It greatly reduces the life of the pad, but it's a lot cheaper than rotors. Generally you are allowed .005 warpage on the rotors, that is the point where the pedal pulsates. Rotors are pretty cheap and super easy to replace, your call on that.

So..... the caliper. You can check the operation by using a c clamp to retract the rotor. Crack the bleeder a bit and let the fluid bleed off, you won't get any air in unless you take the pressure off. You have anti lock I'm sure and it's safest to do that rather than flush it back up the system into the master cyl.

That said, calipers for my car are $12 each come with lifetime warranty take less than a half hour to change out so I put new calipers on. Yours are in the $40 range? I'd just swap one out. Of course you will have to bleed the brakes.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...52FWheel%2BHub
I guessed on the year.

If it sticks a bit, it's not a big deal, I could decrease mileage cause it to pull. It's now at the very end of it's range so with new pads it will be an inch further in the bore and maybe more stable. Again, your call, worst part is bleeding the brakes. You can gravity bleed them to get most of the air out, then mechanically do it. Do it with the key off so the anti lock shit don't activate, don't pump them, just open the bleeder and have someone press the pedal to the floor and hold it, close bleeder, let pedal up slow and repeat till no air comes out. I use a clear plastic tube into a jar so I can see the air bubbles. To show how high tech brakes are, this is the kit for my volvo brakes!
http://www.ray.bt76.com/pages/Youre_.../IMG_1959.html
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